IYKYK: New Orleans
The first time my husband and I visited New Orleans was in October 2019, during Halloween week. It was arguably the best time to experience the city if you like a little bit of magic and mayhem. We had no plans beyond eating, drinking, and wandering. By the end of the trip, we were in love. The kind of love that makes you go back to New York, stare out the window of your 650-square-foot Hell’s Kitchen apartment, and think, What if?
That what if became a why not during the pandemic, when the walls of our tiny apartment felt closer than ever. If we loved New Orleans when the world had come to a screeching halt, we figured we were in it for the long haul. Four years later, we’re still here. The city isn’t easy. It’s chaotic, humid, and unpredictable. But the people? The community? The absolute lack of self-seriousness? That’s why we stay.
Here’s the thing about visiting New Orleans: if you never leave the French Quarter, you’ll only see the version of the city built for tourists. It’s fun, sure, but it’s not the soul of the place. To get a feel for how people actually live here, you need to get out into the neighborhoods. So here are my go-to recommendations - places that aren’t just great for visitors, but where locals actually eat, drink, and, most importantly, linger.
Where to Stay (Because You’ll Want to Stay a While)
The Chloe (Uptown) – A stylish 14-room boutique hotel that makes you feel like you’re staying at your chic friend’s mansion, but it’s the details that get you: the record player in the rooms, the bartender who’ll remember your name by night two, the pool that makes you cancel your afternoon plans.
Hotel St. Vincent (Lower Garden District) - A former orphanage turned into a moody showpiece. Velvet, tile, big windows, and the kind of lighting that makes everyone look better. Stay here if you like your mornings slow and your nights cinematic.
The Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery (Warehouse District) – Downtown without Bourbon Street chaos. Industrial rooms, brick walls, and a built-in excuse to eat at Compère Lapin more than once. (If you skip the curried goat, we can’t be friends.)
Hotel Peter & Paul (Marigny) – Once a church, now a hotel that knows how to play with light and shadow. The Elysian Bar next door is the kind of place where “just one spritz” turns into three hours.
NO TO AIRBNB! Short-term rentals have displaced too many residents. Opt for b&bs or boutique hotels and keep the city’s neighborhoods intact.
Where to Eat (Because You’re Here to Eat, Right?)
Bywater & Marigny
Acamaya - Mexican seafood served small-plate style, but with big bold flavors. Get the Hamachi al Pastor tostada. Do not share it.
Alma - Honduran flavors with a brunch worth waiting for. Plantains, baleadas, and coffee strong enough to cure a late night.
Ayu Bakehouse - Pastry heaven. Grab a pastry to go, then head over to Pond’s Coffee.
Budsi’s - The kind of Thai food that makes you cancel your flight home. Mind your spice-level if you’re delicate.
Hank’s - One of the best “gas station” fried chicken in New Orleans. Don’t forget to ask for the sauce!
Paladar 511 – Chic, industrial spot with standout Italian-inspired dishes.
Piehole - Only open on Mondays when they are open for the season. Great backyard hang with amazing people. Slide into their DMs to get a rez!
Suis Generis - The menu changes weekly (every Friday). Amazing food in an unpretentious and quirky setting.
French Quarter
Clover Grill - Solid diner food for when you need something in your stomach for a debaucherous night in the Quarter.
Envie Cafe - A go-to for coffee and breakfast. I love their chicory cafe au lait!
Doris Metropolitan – A top-tier steakhouse with amazing service and very knowledgable staff.
Jimani - Late-night, deep fried eats. Service industry hang. If you’re here sober, you’re not doing it right.
Mamou - French bistro with Cajun influences and impressive wine program.
Mona Lisa - Italian and you’re surrounded by Mona Lisas.
Patula - A courtyard wine bar off Royal St. at the Krewe Flagship store. Light, yummy food fare.
Sylvain - Elevated Southern bistro with a cute courtyard. Kitchen closes fairly late.
Verti Marte - For when everywhere else in the Quarter is closed, and you need a po’boy to absorb all that alcohol in your system.
Treme & Seventh Ward
Addis - Ethiopian plates that make you want to eat with your hands (and you should).
Dooky Chase - Legendary Creole spot where the fried chicken and mac & cheese could make you cry, and the walls tell as much history as the menu.
Fritai - Haitian cuisine with New Orleans flair from Chef Charly Pierre.
Lil Dizzy’s - Soul food at lunch and lunch only. Only open from 11am - 3pm.
Key’s Fuel Mart - Another amazing "gas station” fried chicken.
Warehouse District & CBD (Central Business District)
34 - Portuguese tapas and jamon bar from Emeril Lagasse and his son EJ. I live for their happy hour of potato chips w/ jamon and a massive goblet of Porto Tonico.
August - John Besh’s flagship restaurant, serving refined Louisiana cuisine.
Bearcat CBD -Health-conscious and indulgent breakfast and brunch options (Are you a Good Cat or a Bad Cat?)
Bésame - Latin style tapas highlighting fresh seafood from the Gulf.
Fourth Wall - Cozy cafe in the CBD.
Gianna - Italian with a Southern spin.
Good Catch - A neighborhood gem for Thai dishes.
Herbsaint - Modern Southern dining with French influences.
Junebug - It’s a bar, but since they offer dinner AND a late night menu til midnight, this goes under the Where to Eat section. If Barrel Proof is our New Orleans’ Belle Reve (iykyk), Junebug would be our Macao. Order the lemongrass wings! Ask for it even if it’s not on the menu.
Kenji - Sushi omakase heaven.
Lufu - Indian - everything is amazing, but the Angara Chicken w/ rice and Garlic Naan are the perfect pairing.
Pêche - James Beard Award-winning seafood restaurant. The chef de cuisine was a batchmate from grade school in the Philippines, and we met here in New Orleans.
St. James Cheese Company - Perfect for a light lunch of artisanal cheese and charcuterie.
Willa Jean - Biscuits and pastries, but I only order their chicory caesar salad with fried chicken.
Yo Nashi - A modern omakase experience with a New Orleans twist.
Lower Garden District & Garden District & Irish Channel
Elizabeth St. Cafe - A French-Vietnamese cafe and bakery at Hotel St. Vincent.
Francolini’s - Old-school Italian-American sandwiches so huge it’s good for 2.
Maïs Arepas – Colombian flavors and perfectly grilled arepas.
Molly’s Rise and Shine – Quirky breakfast spot from the Turkey & The Wolf team.
Stein’s Deli - New York-style Jewish and Italian deli by the one and only Dan Stein. Legend.
Turkey & The Wolf – If a bologna sandwich can be life-changing, this is the place that makes it happen.
Mid-City & Bayou St. John
1000 Figs - A tiny Mediterranean-inspired spot where the falafel is crispy perfection.
Flour Moon Bagels - Just really good bagels. Go early or they’re gone.
Neyow’s - Creole comfort food, best enjoyed with a side of their famous chargrilled oysters.
Toup’s Meatery - Cajun charcuterie, bold flavors, and one hell of a meat program.
Uptown
Bánh Mì Boys - Vietnamese po’boys and classic banh mi done right.
Camellia Grill - Iconic diner where the staff’s energy is just as good as the food.
Clancy’s - Classic white-tablecloth Creole dining with a loyal local following.
Dakar - Senegalese tasting menu that’s redefining fine dining in NOLA.
Frankie & Johnny’s - A true neighborhood joint serving classic Creole dishes.
High Hat Cafe - Southern comfort food with a focus on Mississippi Delta flavors.
Hot Stuff – Meat & 3 spot. The hamburger au poive with rice AND mashed potatoes on the side is one of my favorite childhood meals.
Lilette - Upscale, cozy, and consistently excellent.
Mahoney’s – One of the best spots for a po’boy fix.
Miss Shirley’s - Get there as soon as they open at 5pm, then have Miss Shirley fuss over you when she makes sure you’re getting enough food.
Mosquito Supper Club - A seafood feast rooted in Cajun tradition, served communally.
Saba - Modern Israeli cooking from a chef who knows how to work a wood oven.
Metairie & Kenner (Worth the drive!)
Yakuza House - This is it for sushi lovers.
Yummy House - A low-key spot for comforting Chinese dishes.
Westbank (Just cross the bridge!)
Di Vang - Vietnamese home cooking, especially late at night with a side of karaoke.
Dough Nguyeners – Vietnamese-inspired donuts that are worth waking up early for.
Mosca’s - An old-school Italian roadhouse. Bring a group with you since it’s family-style and you can order one of everything.
Where to Drink (And You Should Drink Here)
Bacchanal Wine (Bywater) – A backyard wine bar with live music and a dreamy, candlelit patio. Bring a group, order a bottle (or three), and let the night unfold.
Bar Tonique (French Quarter) - One of the OG craft cocktail spots in the Quarter. No fuss, no flash, just a deep spirits list and bartenders who know their way around a stirred drink.
Beachbum Berry's Latitude 29 (French Quarter) - Tiki done right. No sickly-sweet mixers here. Just perfectly balanced rum drinks served in vintage mugs with a side of escapism.
Black Penny (French Quarter) - Low lighting, strong pours, and a beer list that could keep you busy for months. It’s where a lot of industry folks end up in the wee hours of the morning.
Double Club (French Quarter) - Feels like a house party with a well-stocked bar. Another industry hang.
Erin Rose (French Quarter) – It’s divey, it’s tiny, it’s perfect. Their frozen Irish coffee is legendary, though I prefer Molly’s at the Market’s frozen Irish Coffee.
Fives (French Quarter) - Solid cocktail program that tastes like someone really thought about them. A good spot to end a night, or start trouble.
Jewel of the South (French Quarter) – Impeccable cocktails in an 1830s Creole cottage. The bartender might be a wizard.
Manolito’s (French Quarter) - Havana-inspired bar with daiquiris that are the gold standard.
Loa (Warehouse District/CBD) - The lobby bar at the International House Hotel. Amazing cocktail program by Abigail Gullo.
Pluck (CBD) - Neighborhood wine bar with a thoughtful list and even knowledgeable sommeliers.
Barrel Proof (Lower Garden District) - No fuss. Come alone and you’ll leave with new friends. Or not, if that’s the mood. Check their Instagram for food pop-ups in the back kitchen.
The Tell Me Bar (Lower Garden District) - Wine bar that feel’s like a friend’s living room.
Breweries - We were honestly shocked by how many breweries New Orleans has that we’re still making our way through them. A few to start with: Miel, Urban South, Second Line, Saint X, Parleaux Beer Lab, NOLA Brewing, Port Orleans, and Skeeta Hawk. Each has its own vibe, so the fun is in finding your favorite.
A Few Final Words of Advice
Pace Yourself. New Orleans is a marathon, not a sprint. If you start with a 10 a.m. daiquiri, hydrate and eat accordingly.
Wear Comfortable Shoes. The city’s streets were not designed with heels in mind. Cobblestones/potholes and cocktails don’t mix.
Talk to People. New Orleanians love a chat, and you’ll learn more from a five-minute conversation with a bartender than from any guidebook.
Linger. This is a city built for taking your time. If you feel the urge to rush, slow down and order another drink.
New Orleans isn’t just a place to visit. It’s a place that gets under your skin. If you do it right, you’ll leave already planning your return. And if you do it really right… you might never leave at all.
